by Peter Baxter | www.southafricalogue.com
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In the modern world, ‘wild’ as far as nature is concerned is a relative concept. It is enough, perhaps, that an area of natural beauty is not utterly trampled by urban development, or destroyed by irresponsible land use, for it to deserve the term ‘wild’. Certainly this is the case in the developing world, and most particularly along the earth’s tropical coastlines. The Wild Coast of South Africa’s Eastern Cape, although hardly wild, is by comparison to the KZN (Kwa-Zulu Natal) South Coast in a different world altogether. It is a gorgeous natural environment, comprising the signature open grasslands and hill country of the south coast, with deep cut ravines peppered with groves of aloe, and deep tidal estuaries cloaked on either bank with rich and unsullied riparian forest. There is no sign anywhere of mock Tuscan gated developments, of strip malls or the blanket sugar estates so ubiquitous throughout the region. It is moreover an environment fiercely protected by both a large cohort of outside environmentalists and significant numbers of local community members. The latter, almost uniquely, have successfully resisted the temptation to climb into bed with property developers and sell the long term integrity of their landscape for short term profit.
The Environmental Frontline
Currently, however, the issue is less property development and more highway construction and strip mining. The controversy in the first instances involves the extension of the ubiquitous toll road system, that is the pride of the South African transport infrastructure, through the Transkei, and secondly whether to grant Australian mining conglomerate, Minerals Commodities Limited, and Local Black Economic Empowerment group Xolobeni Empowerment Company, license to dune mine substantial base metal reserves along the coast. While the intricacies of this contest are beyond the scope of this narrative, they do broadly pit local concerns against central and international financial interests. At the core is the question of land ownership, which, in the case of the wild coast, is land owned by the state and held in trust for the people.
Nqileni is home to a vibrant rural community where times have sometimes been tough; migrant labour has taken its toll on family structure and health service & education have been difficult to access. But in spite of these challenges, the typical scene at sunset is children singing beautiful harmonies as they walk up the hills together on their way home, Mama’s laughing together as they collect water from nearby springs while men and boys effortlessly herd their cattle home to their kraals. The Xhosa traditions are strongly adhered to and are respected by Traditionalists and the Religious alike.
Email Reservations to:
■ nkuli@bulungulaincubator.org
■ samuel@bulungulaincubator.org
You can get more information on www.bulungulahomestay.com . For information about the Bulungula Incubator, log on to www.bulungulaincubator.org
Wild Coast Fund Raising Calendar
HELP PUT A PERMANENT STOP TO:
Mining of the Wild Coast dunes
The 'Greenfields' section of the N2 Toll road through Pondoland
HOW?
Funds raised by your purchase of this calendar go to support residents of Pondoland's Wild Coast, in their ongoing battle to protect and conserve their living landscapes and prevent the shredding of their social fabric by the two massive development schemes.
They need support to gain access to information and effective legal representation in their planned court challenge, over government`s failure to engage them in open and transparent decision making about the N2 Wild Coast `Troll` Road, and the award of mining rights for the Xolobeni mineral sands. The `developments` will benefit cash-rich outsiders and be paid for by cash-poor rural residents and the natural environment.
This is more than just a calendar.
It is a collaborative work of art that magnifies the spectacular natural beauty of the place and amplifies the heartfelt convictions of the people on how development decisions ought to be made in a democratic society.
Calendar Details
. A3 wall calendar with wiro binding
. Beautiful photographs taken by world renowned environmental photographer, Cheryl Alexander
Page a month with challenging quotes from traditional leaders, elected local political representatives and youth activists.
This is a must-have book for your coffee table...
£1 (GBP) from the sale of each book will be donated to Sustaining the Wild Coast (www.swc.org.za), a registered NPO responsible for halting the mining at Xolobeni, and currently waging a protracted legal battle, alongside the Pondoland residents, to stop the N2 troll road.
Click on the pic to order your copy:
or here:
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/905621
The Ama-Xhosa of the Transkei - by Deryck Lang. Edited by Dianne Lang
Gqira: Priest-divinerA photo journal depicting and explaining the customs of the amaXhosa, the largest tribe in South Africa.
Deryck spent his life among the amaXhosa in the Transkei, and was a respected member and Elder of the amaTshezi; the foremost clan of the Bomvana tribe. The photographs he took are a testament of his enduring love of the people, and their deep respect for him.
Deryck "Mdesaleni" Lang: 1934 - 2009
Few, if any, outsiders have been as privileged to photograph tribal customs and ceremonies, to share in their fortunes and their sorrows; and to live amongst them their entire life. Deryck captured an intimate glimpse into what could sadly be the end of a cultural era.
Deryck was a true African in the deepest sense of the word, a man who epitomised the meaning of "Ubuntu" and "Umntu Ngumntu Ngabantu".
Lala Ngoxolo Mdesaleni
With thanks to Claudia Wu for this insightful article outlining the pleasures and pitfalls of traveling the magic bus. Read more of her great travel tips and stories: Where Wu At
11 AUG 2011
For those planning on traveling around South Africa, there is a very convenient backpacker-geared transportation service called Baz Bus. Basically, they provide transportation between backpackers/hostels in major destinations with door-to-door service. They also sell a type of ticket which allows you to hop on/hop off wherever you want for a fixed price. Personally, I decided not to go with Baz Bus because I wanted to get a local feel of South Africa by traveling as locals do. However, I would say 90% of the people I met used Baz Bus to get around. Here are some pros and cons that I found with Baz Bus (having to take it occasionally out of necessity):
Pros
Cons
My advice is to try a bit of both and see what suits your style of traveling. Either way, you’ll get to experience South Africa and all that it has to offer!
Baz Bus website: http://www.bazbus.com
50% OFF all bookings for Hluleka Nature Reserve for the months of October and November 2011 and February and March 2012.
(Also at Great Fish Nature Reserve)
Reservations: 043-701 9600
Email: reservations@ecpta.co.za
Tourism Month
http://www.themercury.co.za/wild-coast-toll-road-decision-is-shameful-1.... July 29 2011 at 11:29am
Wild Coast toll road decision is shameful
SILLY, silly me. All these years I have laboured under the illusion that the prime duty of the Department of Water and Environmental Affairs and its minister was to protect our water resources and be the steward of our environment.
That is the role that was played in the past when the ministries were separate, by ministers like Kader Asmal and Valli Moosa.
But now it increasingly seems as though the ministry, under Edna Molewa, has abdicated its stewardship role, and has again become a Cinderella ministry that bows to pressure from big business, industry and more “senior” government ministries.
How else to explain two recent decisions which are totally inimical to the future of our wild areas and of our environment?
Minister of Water & Environmental Affairs, Edna Molewa, has approved the controversial N2 tollroad through the environmentally sensitive Pondoland Centre of Endemism.
In a 21 page fax sent out to IAPs she dismissed all 49 appeals lodged in objection to the new road. What is clear is that the minister is being a "loyal cadre" and carrying out the wishes of the ANC, while betraying her office and responsibilities to the environment.
Download the Fax here: 184635892.pdf
26 of the appeals were dismissed out of hand due to the fact that they address socio-economic impacts of the tolling; which was the responsibility of the dept of transport and the SANRAL Act.
Concerns about ribbon, or linear development were not possible to consider because it would be based on only "potential future developments" and were dismissed.
A major concern addressed by numerous appeals was SANRAL's bias towards the new 75km section of road between Lusikisiki and Mzamba and against the upgrading of the existing R61. The "Terms of Reference for Environmental Consultant N2 Wild Coast Toll Road Project" (TOR) included a requirement that there must be "due consideration of alternative options and a strong motivation for excluding the R61 and current N2 as alternative options".
Opponents of the N2 toll road that will snake through the Wild Coast are ready to take their battle to the highest court following the controversial road's approval by Environment Minister Edna Molewa this week.
The South African National Roads Agency Limited (Sanral) has fought tooth and nail to build the road from Durban to East London for the past 10 years but has faced fierce opposition from environmentalists, the local community and civil society.
Sanral argues that the Wild Coast community is one of the poorest in the country and would be well served by the development of a road system to encourage tourism and open up the region to economic opportunities.
"We are shocked by the decision, but not really surprised," said Cormac Cullinan, lawyer for the local community opposing the road. "Considering the political support this project had, it was just a matter of time before the road was approved."
Two years ago, before appeals were lodged against the road, Co-operative Governance Minister Sicelo Shiceka told the SABC: "The N2 road is going ahead. We will make sure that this thing goes ahead."
Inyoni (AKA Slipway)A crowd of bemused holiday makers gathered on the beach at Hole in the Wall yesterday where a small penguin had set ashore nursing an injured leg. As it is tagged (S29329), it definitely has had human contact before and seems to have landed at the busiest beach in the area specifically looking for help from humans. Especially as it is over 1000km away from its usual habitat.
The African Penguin (Spheniscus demersus, Xhosa name: Nombombiya, and also known as the Black-footed Penguin) is an endangered species and there are fewer than 100,000 left in the world.
A hiker from nearby Coffee Bay turned out to be a marine biologist from Hawaii, and advised Charlene from Hole in the Wall Hotel on the correct care for the docile, cute little fuzzy, who whacked down 4 sards for dinner, and another 3 for breakfast this morning.

Cher-a-Don Mkulu Kei Horse Trails is an award winning, owner-run horse trail company established in 1998.
We offer guided horse trekking vacations on well trained horses for all riding abilities, catering from small to large groups, offering short day rides as well as multi-day trekking along the Wild Coast.
Beginners to advanced riders of all ages are welcome. Beach rides are approximately 2 hours, leaving at 9:30am and 2:30pm every day. Booking is essential. Our overnight Wild Coast horse trails into the Transkei, range from 2 to 12 days, hopping from hotel to hotel along the pristine coast line.
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We also offer volunteer/ career break/ gap year opportunities for anyone who would like to take part in a working holiday.
A warm welcome and an unforgettable equestrian experience await all visitors to Mkulu Kei Horse Trails.
See you in the saddle soon! Website: www.mkulukeihorsetrails.co.za
Be one of the early pioneers to trail run along sunkissed beaches a distance of some 65 kilometres through Wild Coast Wilderness.
This inaugural event is to be held over the June long weekend which is fortuitously timed over a full moon so that runners can take advantage of golden miles of hard-pack beach on the spring low-tide with less probability of rain and comfortable daily temperature.
The daily run/hike distances are within easy reach of the social jogger and avid hiker with a keen sense of adventure. If you're not sweating for a podium placing, there's plenty of time each day to kick off your shoes, catch your breath under the cool shade of a milkwood or take a refreshing dip in the ocean along the way. The route is unmarked and unmanned, but basic maps will be provided and keeping the sea on your left will guide you to the finish each day. Participants will race as pairs and for those teams competing for a podium position, there will be optional diversions to collect checkpoints along the route
Running Terrain
Participants can expect some of the most spectacular ‘wild running’ terrain. Cattle and fishermen paths provide clear tracks up and over the grassy headlands peppered by Nguni's and brightly painted traditional kraals.
The spectacular cliffs south of Morgan Bay will give you a bird’s eye view of the rugged beauty of this coastline whilst the rusting carcasses of numerous shipwrecks passed on route bear testimony to the dynamic energy of this wild coastline. Participants should also be prepared for some river crossings – depending on the time and tide these could mean an ankle wetting for some and a refreshing swim for others.
THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO EXPERIENCE THE WILDCOAST... FIRST HAND. Visit us now for an unbelievable experience.
OFF THE GRID LIVING!
This is rural Africa at her best!
YOUR VIEW
Experience basic, rustic yet comfortable holiday and backpacking accommodation set in the heart of Pondoland at the mouth of the insanely beautiful Mdumbi River.
LOW TIDE RIVER VIEW
Rooms offer commanding views of the ocean, river, rolling green hills and Tshani point with its perfect right hand wave and beach breaks.
Surfing, fishing, river trips, boat hire, canoeing, hiking and biking, snorkelling, bird watching, and horse rides are just to mention a few activities to busy your day.... or just RELAX!
Your surroundings offer you:
LIFEGUARDED BEACHES DURING HOLIDAYS
We can accommodate 10 guests at one time and we offer the following:
ENJOY FRESH SEAFOOD
For those who have not yet travelled to the Wild Coast it should be pointed out that you will be travelling in an under-developed region. The variety and quality of goods and services you may be accustomed to are not always readily available.
Freedom "O Clock is set in a remote and primitive region, where even the provision of fresh water can not be taken for granted. Taking this into account we aim to achieve the highest possible standards and we feel it is best to make you aware of this.
If you prefer luxury to comfortable living then the Wild Coast may not be for you.
Enquire about catered accommodation, packed lunches and traditional Xhosa stays and meals.
LWANDILE POINT - GOOD SURF!
Contact:
Make your SEA Pledge today and become part of the SEA Pledge movement.
Visit: http://seacc.org.za/pledge
A SEA Pledge is a commitment everyone can make through a written and or monetary pledge to treat the seas, estuaries, coasts and oceans in an environmentally friendly manner. SEA Pledge is more than just a pledge; it is about achieving sustainability, creating opportunities, impacting lives and changing people’s life choices through Sustainable Education and Skills Centres, which will provide education and skills training to help marginalized people who depend upon the seas and other natural resources to find alternative forms of livelihoods and alleviate poverty, while promoting sustainable practices. SEA Pledge and SEAS Centres will be officially launched during COP 17 in a spectacular, fun event that aims to set world records among surfers, divers, swimmers, anglers, yachters, shipping-lines and many others. Visit: www.seacc.org.za/projects/10 or Email seaccsf@gmail.com for more information on how YOU can get involved! "
Unique opportunity to own a piece of the Wild Coast

With a commanding ocean view from Brazenhead to Mbolompo, Raptors View is a picturesque self-catering resort with bar and bistro set atop the rolling green hills between Coffee Bay and Hole in the Wall.
With 5 separate self-catering units on a 5300 square meter property, the establishment has massive potential as a backpackers, resort, or simply private accommodation.
For more information, kindly contact Delene Murray:
Email: raptorsviewcb@gmail.com
Cell: 083-333 4409
Website: www.wildcoast.co.za/raptorsview
Central planning 1-2-3: mining, road, power: Click on the map for full size view (1.5Mb)
From: www.iol.co.za
February 8, 2011
By Ingi Salgado
For some time, the state has withheld two pieces of information with significance for mining along the Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape. Under much pressure, the government has now released both.
Both documents are shocking, but taken together, they paint a cynical picture of a potentially concerted effort to engineer an economically viable dispensation for mining on the Wild Coast
Power to the mining!: running parallel to the planned N2 routewith scant regard for communities and environment.
The first document came in the form of the terms of reference issued by roads agency Sanral to an environmental consultancy for the proposed N2 toll highway, which hugs the coastal sites that prospective miners are eyeing. The terms of reference specifically instruct the consultant to provide “a strong motivation for excluding the R61 and current N2 as options”.
Imagine the outrage if the assessment for a fictional new highway between Durban and Johannesburg was not compared with the impact of upgrading the N3.
That we even have sight of these terms of reference is thanks to Cullinan & Associates, which applied under the Promotion of Access to Information Act. It acts for the Sigidi, Baleni and Mdatya communities, the Khimbili Property Association and residents in the amaDiba tribal authority.
The law firm first successfully opposed environmental authorisation for the proposed N2 highway in 2004, sending Sanral back to the drawing board.
Senior director Cormac Cullinan says: “It’s indisputable that if the new road doesn’t go ahead, it will have a major impact on the financial viability of mines... That’s a strong reason why they didn’t want to consider the existing route.”
The toll road appeal is now with the Department of Environmental Affairs. Cullinans alleges Sanral appears to have intended to mislead the minister because the agency initially denied its consultant had been specifically excluded from considering certain alternatives.
The second document to come to light is the nearly year-old report by Congress of Traditional Leaders of SA chief Patekile Holomisa, who led a task team assessing the award of a 2008 mining right to Transworld Energy and Mineral Resources to mine titanium on the Kwanyana block of Xolobeni on the Wild Coast.
The Department of Mineral Resources finally made Holomisa’s report public last week, and it is rather instructive. It points out that Transworld indicated a feasibility study would be carried out “as soon as the mining right is formally granted” – whereas the law requires proof that the mineral can be mined optimally. The report asks whether Transworld was allowed to dictate the processing of the application.
It also points out the mining right was granted without an environmental impact assessment, environmental management plan or further attention given to any of the department’s own stated requirements.
There was no study of the benefits of mining versus ecotourism and issues raised by the Department of Environmental Affairs were not addressed. The Department of Mineral Resources opted to reconvene the task team, which will hold hearings in Durban this month.
There is a third leg to the saga, a legal wrangle over the Commission for Traditional Leadership’s decision to dislodge amaPondo King Mpondombini Sigcau from the throne. Webber Wentzel says “a gross injustice to (our) clients appears to have been done, which cannot go unchallenged”.
Is it a coincidence that the deposed royals oppose both the Xolobeni mining and the N2 toll road?
Well known Kwazulu-Natal midlands water-colour artist, Joan Bastard, has kindly put together a calendar of paintings for SWC, depicting scenes of Transkei and Pondoland.
These calendars are selling for R150 each, of which R30/ calendar is donated to SWC. The remainder goes towards printing costs and artist commission. The calendars are printed on high quality paper and make wonderful mementos and gifts.
If you would like to order a calendar (or a whole bunch for your friends, colleagues, office, or family) then please follow these steps:
Details of SWC bank account:
Account Name: SWC
Bank: First National Bank
Branch: Randburg
Account No. 62157997639
Branch Code: 254005
Note - No orders will be taken without prior full payment.
Next time you're in Coffee Bay, be sure to pick up one of these ingenious purses made by the local children from old cartons.
If you'd like to place an order for some unique Christmas presents, please email: kategethinglewis@yahoo.com
Only R30 each! (Postage extra)
All proceeds go to the kids who make them.
The Amadiba Crisis Committee (ACC) and Legal Resource Centre (LRC) demands decision from the department “by no later than 28 September 2010”, failing which the matter will be taken to High Court.
Social worker John Clarke has provided the following summary of developments, and opinion.
Xolobeni Mining
We are still waiting for DG of Mineral Resources, Sandile Nogcina, to announce the outcome of the appeal by the Amadiba Crisis Committee. It has been over two years since the appeal was lodged.
We are appealing to enthusiastic volunteers to assist rural schools and promote literacy, computer skills, extramural activities, arts and sports development.
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Experience the magic of Africa and play a vital role in education and bridging the digital divide, while exploring and integrating with the ancient local customs and culture of the Xhosa people.
The Mentoring Volunteer Project is based on the Wild Coast, and works with junior secondary schools located in and around Hole in the Wall and nearby Coffee Bay.
Please see:
Mentor-ring Volunteer Project for more info.
You may also be interested in these other Wild Coast Volunteer projects:
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